

In the meantime, I find myself increasingly fascinated by Untersberg, the mountain peak which towers over Salzburg and which greets me so many times a day: peeking over the tall trees at the edge of the Mirabell Gardens when I walk home from Uni, and whenever I travel to and from Salzburg by train or plane. One of the legends has it that Charlemagne sleeps under the mountain, and that when Europe needs him again he will wake up and march down with his armies. Whenever I catch sight of it, I can never work out whether I feel watched, or simply watched over, but I find it unsettling, as though Untersberg somehow embodies all my challenges here, and I am somehow fighting something very ancient.